Tuesday, August 26

How to use a sewing machine

Without the sewing machine, the world would be a very different place. Like the automobile, the cotton gin and countless other innovations from the past 300 years, the sewing machine takes something time-consuming and laborious and makes it fast and easy. With the invention of the mechanized sewing machine, manufacturers could suddenly produce piles of high-quality clothing at minimal expense.

Using a sewing machine is not as difficult as it seems. There are basics of machine sewing that are the same no matter what make or model machine you use.

For the first,you should understand the process of machine sewing. A machine uses two thread sources. The top thread runs from a spool you thread along the machine loops, into a tension wheel and through the needle. The order and direction should be marked on the machine or in the machine's manual. Usually, the thread follows this general pattern: "left, down, up, down, through."
Then check your manual to ensure correct needle placement. The needle is held in place by a screw; generally, the screw is loosened enough to insert the needle fully into the slot, then the screw tightened very tightly. In most machines, the flat side of the needle goes to the back of the slot; however, you'll want to be absolutely sure this is correct for your model.
Be sure to string the bottom thread (bobbin) correctly. Insert the bobbin by sliding or lifting a plate with a little window which is under the needle OR at the bottom front (or bottom left) of the machine with a removable bobbin case. All vintage machines still use this original bobbin method. If stringing is not done correctly, the top and bottom threads will not loop together - huge tangles of thread on the bottom of the material are an indication of incorrect threading. If your machine doesn't have threading directions, try typing the machine brand and model number into google - many companies have posted this critical information on the internet.
Adjust the tension if problems arise with stitches. The thread tension adjustment is usually somewhere along the top left side of the machine. The bobbin tension is usually adjusted by slightly tightening or loosening the large screw in the bobbin holder. In general, the newer the machine, the less you should fiddle with the tension!
Practice on scrap material first. It will take several bobbins of thread in practice before you gain simultaneous control of the foot pedal, steering the material under the needle, and keeping a good speed. Even the best tailors do a test before committing needle to fabric.
In general, keep the bulk of the material to the left of the machine - crowding that bulk on the right side can cause messy stitching.
Measure the seam allowance. This is the "normal" space between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line - the major pattern companies plan for 5/8". Get a ruler and measure on either side of the needle. This should be marked already on your machine's "throat plate" (the flat metal piece that the needle goes through). If not, mark it yourself with masking tape.
Do not force the material or pull the material while it is going under the needle. This can cause the material to stretch or the needle to break, or the stitches to clog up in the bobbin. Either press the foot pedal harder or buy a faster machine.
Take some time to test all the stitches available on your machine. This is particularly important if you do buttonholes or the fancy stitches.

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